Washed Wool

Funny that http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/2013/10/20/fabric-focus-wool/ has wool as the Fabric Focus. This is wool that I have washed – sanitized in the washing machine for about 2 hours with my hemp slippers to felt the wool. I would do this three or four times when doing some deep cleaning on rugs and slippers to get a felted wool. These materials are part of my stash of thrift store material purchases. So no great loss if I bung it up.

As the main body is plaid each peace was individually cut to match the plaid. As this is a curvaceous pattern the end matching should be close but it is too soon to tell. The wool cuts like butter and no fraying involved!

Here is my posting of this pattern last year https://austerity101.wordpress.com/2012/07/11/now-for-my-jacket

For this coat I have lengthened the pattern to knee length. The beige will be the front facing and the under front panel. It will also be used for a collar which I have to create and the under sleeves. I haven’t ironed the wool as it will undo some of the felting and I am hoping that this process will keep me dry and warm this winter.

This bright blue will be the lining. It is sand washed silk and very thick. It also is a thrift shop find of 20$ for 4 meters – plenty to line a long coat.

In between the wool and silk I will put in a cotton quilting felt to add to the warmth. Each piece will be cut to the felt – so it will take a bit before I can post the finalized garment.

The interLining

My photo representing my year 2012. IT is about the process, IT is tactile, IT is colorful, IT is warm. I moved past some of my boundaries and have had to learn to live with some new ones. Life is good. And it is represented in my 1912 jacket. It is taking an outline and moving it forward to a project and like me, mostly completed.

Thanks for taking your time to share some of this with me. I hope that you have a 2013 that is warm and a good work in progress 🙂

Cathy

0336 Princess Slip

I created a muslin after altering the pattern to better sculpt my curvaceous figure. I added to all seams 5/8” to accommodate my larger body size leaving the shoulders as per the pattern. Also for ease I increased the under arm by 1 inch at the lower seam. I only need to take it in a bit at the top corner of each front seam so there is no gaping when worn and I added a 1/2” tuck in the seam allowance at the top center front panel for modesty. This little dart folds the soft cotton down into the space between the breast when resting. I increased the shoulder seam by 1/4 in to keep the shoulders seams in place.

Once I had it together my lopsidedness showed up. A slight reposition of the right breast seam evened it out enough for it not be a noticeable flaw.

To be honest I couldn’t bring myself to deface the elegance of the cut with any lace. I have a rather large stash of vintage lace and an equally impressive find of polyester lace and not one piece said “Put me there on this red slip!” I looked at each one and against the deep red, nothing jumped, danced or screamed to say anything but try again on other fabric.

The Back view with the buttons pinned into place. I decided to use mother of pearl buttons as a modest embellishment. 24 in all and to get in and out of the garment I must slip if off the shoulders and spin the buttons to the front. It works with this cut and I don’t need someone to help though I would not turn down the offer when it is given!

The finished slip. Very simple with an awesome set of buttons down the back. Sorry but no shots of the finished back at this time. I can’t seem to get a decent shot of the back and hubby is at work so the one of it hanging will have to do. Of note, I do not want to take it off at this time to put it on Daisy (the dress form) as it is too comfortable!

I am planning to recreate this pattern as a dress and I have some plum silk that I found at Value Village for a 9.99! Perfect! I have vintage cotton lace from 1905 a foundling from EBay a few years back and it will be stunning. That is if I can bring myself to implement the lace into the pattern. I will have to wait until I am working on it to decide. Though when I picture this dress is dose have a min of lace across the bust line in v shape and no more than that. Have to wait and see what comes.

Check List

description– a fitted princess cut slip 0336 Princess Slip
pattern sizing– this was a medium slip with plenty of ease,
instructions easy? the instructions were basic and easy to follow for a intermediate sewer.
what to like/dislike? Love the cut, very flattering for the fuller figure fabric used– a very fine 3oz cotton: great as a slip and only wearable as a dress on hot august nights when it is harder to see thought the fine fabric.
alterations/design changes? Added 5/8” to accommodate a 44 “ bust graded to keep the original shoulder with and center panel width. I did a center tuck on the center front panel. For the underarms, I increased the bottom length by an inch keeping the shape and dimensions of the cut. To truly fit me, I should decrease the amount of fabric at the side hips but I love the swirle of fabric as I move and sit. recommend to others? Do this one, with a little skill you can have a hot dress!conclusion? class and style in a easy to follow cut. I love it!
Pattern Name: 0336 Princess Slip
sewer’s skill: Intermediate ( beginner who has a lot of patience), the lace insertion is simple enough though it was not suited for this color. The pleats also require patience but I would never wear the garment – too fancy for a simple bookkeeper!
rating & why, 1-5, 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? The cut was superior to princess cuts of modern patterns – a lot more curve and the fit through out is more for an active body. I made a Burda princess cut dress a few years back and though it looks very good, it has not the ease or curves that this pattern has.
skill needed & why. A very patient beginner could work there way though this pattern but it is suited for an intermediate level of skill. instructions easy? Change? They instructions are basic and good. Adding pictures can help the beginner. Fit/sizing? As expected? Yes, there is a good bit of ease but the drape adds to the allure of this functional yet fitting garment.

I love this slip. It will stay a slip unless my hubby talks me into lining it with some cream silk that he gave me. either way, it’s a keeper!

Now for my Jacket

austerity101

I tried it on for fit and it is good! It will feel better when the outside temperature is below 10C! It is now neatly folded in my cedar chest for the duration of summer.

The Starting Point:

I am good a finding what I need. Sometimes it is not what I want but I do find it fills my needs. I have been picking up fabric at the local thrift shops for years. I have many large pieces of wool for just such a project.

To make my jacket I first needed to resize the pattern for my mature figure. Just adding an inch to the pattern only worked with the hips and bust. As the original pattern is for the wearer of corsets the waist needed to come in. And not just in – the sides needed to be graded with shoulders being left at…

View original post 283 more words

The Muslin Jacket has a new home

My muslin Jacket from the traveling suite has a new home today.

It was a pretty good fit with only a little tightness to the back. My friend is net shy so I promised to hide the face details. She was happy with it and wanted to pay for it but it was scrap I was happy that it found a good home.

The sewing Room;

It is actually the kitchen table – the room is packed away for each dinner.

I shortened the skirt a bit with pin tucks at the bottom. There are a few places that the folds are out of sync with the strips and I will work on them over the weekend – maybe!

I found this on Bells Archives as article in the CBC news online. It is the traveling suite 1002, same sleeves, cuffs and two rows of buttons and in plaid.

The lining is finish.

The lining is now finished. Now on to the wool!

Traveling Suite 1002

The finished look is .

My partner has made it known that each piece is nice on it’s own and together they don’t quite work. From a distance it works. And as each is in effect only a muslin worked from the fabric stash, it works. The skirt can be worn for more formal occasions of which I never attend so it will end up as a donation.

The pattern is easy to use, the cut is good. An intermediate sewer will have no problems with either of these pieces. I loved putting it together.

I like the fit across the shoulders – it works for my broad shoulders. The waist on the jacket can work as is but can use a little more tapering for a more modern look. The front has a nice look though I do not recommend plaid unless you are able to match the pattern. I ended up lining the jacket as it is for a friend however I did not think of this until after I had done the button holes and top stitching. So the lining was attached with a quick slipstitch.

The belt is just a tie that I had kicking around as my black belt is currently hiding in a safe place. The contrast works for these photos.

I had a lot of fun with these patterns and I look forward to the next piece.

Cathy

The traveling Jacket- 1002

The traveling suit – 1002 – 1912 Sewing Project

Again, the cut is wonderful. More so if you actually wore corsets! I know I don`t so I will have do modernize the final piece. Todays fashion allow for closer fitting clothing so when I took the initial measurements I decided not to change the size but sew and see what I get. For my muslin I used a wad of wool blend that I purchased it at the thrift store for 8$. This thrift shop find unfortunately was scrap from someone else’s sewing project and was only large rectangular pieces. Luckily suited this jacket for size and weight.

It looks good.

The back looks like a rectangle and needs to be shaped more at the waist to be modernized.

The front at the waist can benefit from some tweaking to better show the waist. I have yet to add the belt loops and make a belt.

The sleeves are a nice cut and the gather at the top give a sharp look at the shoulders.

Now to finish.

almost done!

The traveling skirt – 1002

What I like is the cut and ease of placement of the seams. They fit well. I have been pondering the skirt as it larger in what I am used to in overall fit for these old patterns.

Keep in mind that this a traveling skirt i believe that it is to be worn over the better clothing. I have a habit (sometimes good sometimes not!) of not reading the instructions and only following the cut of the cloth as my guide. This has led me in this case to not finishing the left fount seam as instructed. I have placed small strips for strength for the finishing leaving the seam open with either buttons or hooks & eyes to keep it closed. When I look at the picture of the completed garment what comes to mind is a left opening overskirt with buttons to keep the skirt closed on the left side panel.

For my muslin I used some gray woven strip. I felt that the lines in the fabric would encourage any flaws in the original pattern. When cutting the skirt I was short 4 inches in length for the back, so I doubled the amount of width needed and created a back ruffle. Not per the pattern but as it for the muslin, it could survive the embellishment.

I enjoyed this construction. The high waist was easily tamed with a waistband elastic zigzagged on to the edge and top stitched into place. I may change it at a later date. I have placed hooks and eyes for closures and they work around the waist well but closer to the bottom they will be problematic. I will look to placing buttons there and will wait until the jacket is all but finished to add this detail.

The fit on me is somewhat large. Could have been my fuzzy math in sizing the pattern or it could be that it was expected that there would be a bustle in the back side and an additional skirt or two underneath. I will continue the contemplation of this while I size the jacket.