Weekly Photo Challenge: THE HUE(S) OF YOU!

I’m complicated!

Folkware #209–Walking Skirt

This is a fun skirt to make. I have several that I wear – one in hemp summer cloth for summer and two in wool for winter.

Here is the post when I reworked the hemp summer skirt – https://austerity101.wordpress.com/2012/08/20/the-fix-the-folkware-walking-skirt-in-hemp-summer-cloth-revisited/

My partner found for me some red denim that has a velveteen brush like finish on the right side. Total cost $4.00 for the skirt. The tread was given to me and the closure was a find at a thrift store in a bag of buttons and such.

The material is not part of the recommended list as it is normally too heavy but this is just a bit lighter than the regular denim so I went ahead with the cut.

The pattern is an easy sew except for the placket – it can be tricky. Here is a close up of the back seem just below the placket opening.

The placket sewn to the extending flap, showing the opening , and a placement of where it will go on the back panels.

A small clip is needed for the opening to function properly. This is the trickiest part of the construction. Attaching the bottom of the placket to the skirt while maintaining the top stitching on the placket itself.

The placket in place – I was not happy with the placket as it buckled at at the bottom opening so I ripped it out and cleaned it up. Once finished only one button or in this case the hook will be necessary to secure my modesty!

In this shot above I have the back pleated but the end result was an overly large back side on an already large lady so I removed the pleats and inserted a gather as per the instructions. To gather heavy material – use dental floss! It holds forever and doesn’t break under the weight. I secure one end with a pin and pull so that I have an even texture along the line, baste to secure and ensure that there are no unsightly folds in the seam.

The finished gather. (please note that this is the correct color of the fabric – I have too much still to do to correct each photograph.)

Gentile has taken a liking to the ironing board and she is as stubborn as she is old so it can take a bit to get her to share the space!

For all of my waistbands I insert an elastic band the width of the finished band to keep the waistband from folding when I sit. This allows for a long wearing waistband with the right amount of firmness at all times and no unsightly folds.

I ran over the basting with a 2.5 stitch to secure the waistband, clipped the edges ( perhaps a little too close) and

slip stitched the waist band into place

With the waistband secure, I moved on to the hem. For a rare change, I actually ironed my allowance up. Normally I just turn on the sewing machine and away I go. As it is denim and with the a straight stich on a denim hem has an annoying habit of turning up, and this can very hard to iron out.. To stop this I did an embroidery stich over the hem. It adds color and dimension to this very red skirt and will keep the bottom smooth.

thanks for taking the time to read about my adventure in sewing.

Weekly Photo Challenge: One Shot, Two Ways

A dusk (golden hour) shot of the trees up the street.

Again, a golden hour shot of fuchsia.

I loved this challenge. New camera and good practice.

The interLining

My photo representing my year 2012. IT is about the process, IT is tactile, IT is colorful, IT is warm. I moved past some of my boundaries and have had to learn to live with some new ones. Life is good. And it is represented in my 1912 jacket. It is taking an outline and moving it forward to a project and like me, mostly completed.

Thanks for taking your time to share some of this with me. I hope that you have a 2013 that is warm and a good work in progress 🙂

Cathy

0336 Princess Slip

I created a muslin after altering the pattern to better sculpt my curvaceous figure. I added to all seams 5/8” to accommodate my larger body size leaving the shoulders as per the pattern. Also for ease I increased the under arm by 1 inch at the lower seam. I only need to take it in a bit at the top corner of each front seam so there is no gaping when worn and I added a 1/2” tuck in the seam allowance at the top center front panel for modesty. This little dart folds the soft cotton down into the space between the breast when resting. I increased the shoulder seam by 1/4 in to keep the shoulders seams in place.

Once I had it together my lopsidedness showed up. A slight reposition of the right breast seam evened it out enough for it not be a noticeable flaw.

To be honest I couldn’t bring myself to deface the elegance of the cut with any lace. I have a rather large stash of vintage lace and an equally impressive find of polyester lace and not one piece said “Put me there on this red slip!” I looked at each one and against the deep red, nothing jumped, danced or screamed to say anything but try again on other fabric.

The Back view with the buttons pinned into place. I decided to use mother of pearl buttons as a modest embellishment. 24 in all and to get in and out of the garment I must slip if off the shoulders and spin the buttons to the front. It works with this cut and I don’t need someone to help though I would not turn down the offer when it is given!

The finished slip. Very simple with an awesome set of buttons down the back. Sorry but no shots of the finished back at this time. I can’t seem to get a decent shot of the back and hubby is at work so the one of it hanging will have to do. Of note, I do not want to take it off at this time to put it on Daisy (the dress form) as it is too comfortable!

I am planning to recreate this pattern as a dress and I have some plum silk that I found at Value Village for a 9.99! Perfect! I have vintage cotton lace from 1905 a foundling from EBay a few years back and it will be stunning. That is if I can bring myself to implement the lace into the pattern. I will have to wait until I am working on it to decide. Though when I picture this dress is dose have a min of lace across the bust line in v shape and no more than that. Have to wait and see what comes.

Check List

description– a fitted princess cut slip 0336 Princess Slip
pattern sizing– this was a medium slip with plenty of ease,
instructions easy? the instructions were basic and easy to follow for a intermediate sewer.
what to like/dislike? Love the cut, very flattering for the fuller figure fabric used– a very fine 3oz cotton: great as a slip and only wearable as a dress on hot august nights when it is harder to see thought the fine fabric.
alterations/design changes? Added 5/8” to accommodate a 44 “ bust graded to keep the original shoulder with and center panel width. I did a center tuck on the center front panel. For the underarms, I increased the bottom length by an inch keeping the shape and dimensions of the cut. To truly fit me, I should decrease the amount of fabric at the side hips but I love the swirle of fabric as I move and sit. recommend to others? Do this one, with a little skill you can have a hot dress!conclusion? class and style in a easy to follow cut. I love it!
Pattern Name: 0336 Princess Slip
sewer’s skill: Intermediate ( beginner who has a lot of patience), the lace insertion is simple enough though it was not suited for this color. The pleats also require patience but I would never wear the garment – too fancy for a simple bookkeeper!
rating & why, 1-5, 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? The cut was superior to princess cuts of modern patterns – a lot more curve and the fit through out is more for an active body. I made a Burda princess cut dress a few years back and though it looks very good, it has not the ease or curves that this pattern has.
skill needed & why. A very patient beginner could work there way though this pattern but it is suited for an intermediate level of skill. instructions easy? Change? They instructions are basic and good. Adding pictures can help the beginner. Fit/sizing? As expected? Yes, there is a good bit of ease but the drape adds to the allure of this functional yet fitting garment.